September 13, 2015

Yokomo 870C shock tips

Do not use the small black O-rings in the kit.
use metric O-rings which is hard type. not the soft ones like in AE shocks. the orange ones from later Yokomo shocks worked well.

Put black large cap seals. Yokomo ones are not helpful. AE shock cap O-rings works fine

Do not put the shock end till you finish the shock. you can adjust the rebound without the shock end

[Original Post]
The purple shocks look great and leak bad. and there are two different way to build these shocks.

The old way is with springs inside. and another method is with a thin washer instead of the spring. both hold the plastic bushing tight and prevent the leak. but the washer is more simple and works better to me. another problem with the spring method is the stroke keeps getting smaller while the oil leaks

 It's easy to exchange the spring to the washer. the later kit came with 10mm thin copper washer, and any thin washer with 9~10mm diameter works. but the inside hole should be 4mm or more. this margin makes the piston and the red large seal doing their jobs. and, don't forget AE green slime

Sometimes we got broken shock shafts or alumium shock ends. or I want to use this non-leaking purple shock on my Hogdog4. later yokomo shock shafts are 3mm thick and they are too thin to be replaced. AE shock shafts work well with 870C shocks.

For this, you need to use the washer, not the spring. otherwise the shocks leak

With Composite Craft graphite shock towers and today's work

1 comment:

  1. Hi there -

    I'm restoring a 1988 YZ-10 of my own, and one of my front shocks has a broken shaft. I see here that you are using an Associated shaft to replace it, and I would like to do the same!

    Would you mind sharing which Associated shaft you are using?

    Also, am I understanding correctly that with the Associated shaft you are switching it around so that the threaded side is not within the shock body?

    Thank you in advance!